Perhaps unsurprisingly given the number of grape vines left to grow in the various nooks and crannies dotted around the Island. The Times of Malta reported recently that scientists have discovered 10 previously undocumented varieties of indigenous Maltese grapes for potential wine-making. Up until now Malta had two recognised wine grape varieties, known as Ġellewża and Girgentina.
The four-year research was carried out by the Centre for Viticulture and Oenology within the Maltese agricultural ministry and shared on X by Josef Bonello from Ta’ Betta Winery. Samples were collected from various Maltese farmers, which were then sent to France for DNA testing to ascertain whether they were, in fact, unique to Malta. The 10 varieties have now received certification and have been added to a register.
The next step in the process is finding out which of these 10 varieties – or a blend of two or more varieties – makes good wine, have the right fructose and sucrose levels to produce the required amount of alcohol. Acidity, the amount of grapes they produce and how amenable they are to cultivation are other factors.
Another advantage of indigenous varieties is that they are more likely to be resilient to climate change, since they have already adapted to local conditions.
How quickly these varieties end up being on the table depends on the number of growers that take them up.
Before the early 1990s, wine produced in Malta was made almost exclusively with Ġellewża and Girgentina grapes. However changing global trends in the wine market shifted production to more internationally recognised varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. This also resulted at a time when the Maltese wine industry was undergoing a massive improvement in quality and with it a shift towards more terroir awareness.
Today, there are 17 licensed wine producers in Malta and Gozo but, somewhat sadly, only a handful of these currently grow the two indigenous varieties. It is hoped the discovery may continue to spur a renewed appreciation for local varieties.
