Imagine a vibrant green liquid, swirling in a glass, its aroma a blend of herbal intrigue and licorice allure. This is absinthe, a spirit steeped in history, myth, and artistic inspiration. Once known as “The Green Fairy,” absinthe has captivated drinkers and artists alike for centuries with its unique flavour and legendary effects. This highly alcoholic (typically above 60% and up to 80%) anise-flavoured spirit, derived from a blend of botanicals, boasts a rich and complex past, marked by both adoration and prohibition. Absinthe traditionally has a natural green colour but may also be colourless or enhanced with some other coloured herbs. Sometimes casually referred to as a liqueur, absinthe is not traditionally bottled with sugar or sweeteners.

A History Steeped in Botanicals

Absinthe’s origins can be traced back to ancient Egypt, where wormwood, its key ingredient, was used for medicinal purposes. Early forms of absinthe (drinkable wormwood) are mentioned in the Bible and ancient Egyptian and Syrian writings. Absinthe was a simpler formula back then, consisting of only wine laced with wormwood. It was used to treat various ailments such as jaundice, menstruation pain, anaemia, and bad breath. The modern distillation process for absinthe emerged in Switzerland in the late 18th century, probably as a patent remedy created by Dr. Pierre Ordinaire around 1792. Absinthe’s popularity soared in 19th-century France, particularly among artists and writers who frequented the cafes of Paris.

Absinthe’s allure drew in many of the era’s most celebrated creative minds. The renowned painter, Pablo Picasso and Edgar Degas: The impressionist painter who captured the essence of absinthe culture in his famous painting “L’Absinthe” (original title was Dans un Café), Ernest Hemingway was known to enjoy absinthe, and it is mentioned in some of his writings, and Oscar Wilde who wrote about the effects of absinthe as “tasting like nothing else in the world“.

The spirit’s distinctive flavour comes from a careful blend of botanicals, with grand wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) playing the starring role. In addition to wormwood, green anise, and sweet fennel, absinthe often incorporates other herbs and spices, such as hyssop, melissa, and star anise, each contributing to its complex flavour profile.

Absinthe can be produced in two ways.

• Distilled absinthe employs a method of production similar to that of high-quality gin. Botanicals are initially macerated in distilled base alcohol before being re-distilled to exclude bitter principles, and impart the desired complexity and texture to the spirit. Traditional absinthes obtain their green colour strictly from the chlorophyll of whole herbs, which is extracted from the plants during the secondary maceration.
• Cold mixed absinthe involves the blending of flavouring essences and colouring to otherwise distilled alcohol. Many modern absinthes are produced this way. This is a cheaper way of producing absinthe.

The Absinthe Ban

Despite its popularity, absinthe faced growing opposition in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, absinthe was accused of causing hallucinations and other adverse effects. This was largely based on the presence of thujone, a chemical compound found in wormwood. Thujone can be harmful in extremely high amounts. It is naturally present in many foods but never in high enough concentrations to cause harm. Modern research suggests that the thujone levels in absinthe are too low to cause such effects. The European Union permits a maximum thujone level of 35 mg/kg in alcoholic beverages where Artemisia species is a listed ingredient, and 10 mg/kg in other alcoholic beverages. Member countries regulate absinthe production within this framework. The sale of absinthe is permitted in all EU countries unless they further regulate it.

One notable incident that contributed to the ban was the case of Jean Lanfray, a Swiss farmer.

The Lanfray case, combined with existing anxieties and economic pressures, led to a wave of absinthe bans across Europe and the United States. By 1915, absinthe was prohibited in many countries, including France, Switzerland, the United States, and Belgium, but not in others, such as the United Kingdom.

The Revival of Absinthe

After decades of prohibition, absinthe has experienced a resurgence in popularity in recent years. Modern absinthe is produced in various countries and is generally safe to consume when enjoyed in moderation. This revival has been driven by a renewed interest in classic cocktails and a desire to experience the unique flavour and history of this once-forbidden drink. The adoption of modern European Union food and beverage laws in the 1990s, which removed barriers to its production and sale, further facilitated this resurgence.

How to Enjoy Absinthe

The traditional preparation of absinthe involves a ritualistic process that enhances the drinking experience. Cold water is slowly dripped over a sugar cube placed on a perforated spoon resting on top of a glass filled with absinthe. This dilution causes the essential oils in the absinthe to emulsify, creating a cloudy effect known as the “louche.” The louche not only transforms the appearance of the drink but also releases its aromas and flavours, preparing it for consumption. Absinthe can also be used in a variety of cocktails, adding its unique character to both classic and contemporary drinks.

For those interested in delving deeper into the world of absinthe, Captain Caruana’s website and personnel offer a wealth of information and a curated selection of absinthes from around the world. Please feel free to drop by and speak to our shop staff.

Absinthe, with its captivating history, unique flavour, and ritualistic preparation, continues to fascinate and inspire. It is important to remember that absinthe is a potent spirit and should be consumed responsibly. Whether enjoyed in its traditional form or in a modern cocktail, absinthe offers a taste of history and a glimpse into the creative world of the past. Its revival speaks to our enduring fascination with this legendary drink, allowing consumers to appreciate its complex flavours and cultural significance in a new light.